Styles and Details of Fashion 服装款式分类及其细部
1 Shirts/Blouses/男衬衫/女衬衫
Shirt Details/男衬衫细部
The shirt is inner wear or outer wear on the torso, was developed as a men’s item.
男衬衫作为男装单品的一种,可以穿在里面也可以穿在外面。
Point/领尖, shoulder yoke/肩部育克, sleeve, sleeve placket/袖衩, cuff/袖克夫, vent。开衩, collar band/底领, collar, collar bottom, armhole, chest pocket, placket/门襟, front panel。前片, guntlet button/袖衩扣, cuff button/袖口扣.
Blouse details
The blouse is a soft and loose garment for the upper body which is worn by women together with skirts or trousers. In today’s fashion, there is a large variety of shirt / blouse styles. The different features of individual designs, e. g. the neckline and collar, length, cut, details and decoration, together with the material produce a particular style.
女衬衫是一种柔软宽松的女上衣,可以配以短裙也可以配裤子。 如今,男/女衬衫的款式有多种多样,特别的设计可以通过领口、领子、长度、裁剪、细部、装饰以及面料的变化创造出独特的款式。
Gather抽褶, cuff, front panel, slit/开衩, collar, armhole, placket, sleeve, cuff button.
Blouse design variation/女衬衫款式设计
Tie neck/打结式
The bands on the neckline are loosely knotted or tied into a bow.
领口带子松松打结或系成蝴蝶结。
Shirt style/男衬衫式
The straight cut, cuffed sleeves and button placket are from mans shirt.
直线裁剪,带袖口的袖子和门襟都借用了男衬衫的风格。
Peplum/腰裙式
Top with a short skirt (peplum) which is either sewn on or shaped.
上衣设计有小短裙(腰裙), 可以另缝一片也可以直接裁成。
Blouson/短茄克式
A blouse with a full bodice and close fitting waistband.
上衣宽松,下摆带有合体腰带的衬衫。
Safari style/猎装式
Breast pockets, epaulettes and rolled sleeves emphasize the casual style.
胸袋、肩襻以及卷起的袖子强调出休闲的风格。
Polo shirt/马球式衫式
A casual blouse made of knitted fabric with an open collar and a short button placket.
一种休闲风格衬衫,采用针织面料,开领,短开襟。
Wrap- over/裹襟式
The front section is closely overlapped and tied at the side.
前面两片相互重叠,并在一侧打结
Ruffle style
A blouse with ruffle on the front edges of neckline and collar.
前襟领口及领子设计有菏叶边的女衫。
2 Jacket/外套
The jacket is a basic item of outwear. Sometimes, it refers particularly to the tailored types in men’s clothing. In a broad sense it includes the jumper ( blouson) as well, and is worn by men, woman and children. The distinguishing features between individual designs doe example, length, width, silhouette’s cut and details are determined by the style.
外套是一种基本的外穿服装。 有时特指精制男西服。 广义来说,也包括休闲茄克,可以是男装、女装, 也可以是童装。 不同的款式在长度、宽度、外形轮廓、裁剪方式以及细部方案各有独特之处。
Jacket details
Gorge line/串口线, lapel/驳头, armhole, front dart, flap pocket/盖式口袋, front cut/前摆圆角, collar, shoulder line/肩线, sleeve top/袖山头, flower hole/插花孔, chest wilt pocket/前胸开缝口袋, sleeve, sleeve button.
Denim and jumper
Double stitch/双明线, shoulder yoke, bolt lock/锁缝, front pleat, shirt collar, set-in sleeve/装袖, western flap pocket/牛仔带盖口袋.
Johnney collar, set-in sleeve, melton/麦尔登呢, leather sleeve/皮革袖, rib knit/罗纹袖口, monogram/角织字母, double piped pocket双滚边口袋, knit jersey/针织下
摆, dot button./打点纽扣
Jacket design variation
Tailored jacket/精制西服
A dainty women’s jacket, fitted at the waist with a classic lapel.
一种精制女外衣,腰部合体,设计有经典的翻驳领。
Cardigan style/无领开襟式
A hip length, shaped jacket with a long neck and no collar.
长及臀围,低领口,无领的外衣。
Short jacket/短外衣
A short ,loose jacket which is also described as a jacket-top.
短而宽松的外衣,也被描述为外衣上身。
Chanel suit/夏奈尔式
A collarless style jacket. It employs “Chanel tweed” and hem-stitching.
features
一种无领的上衣,采用夏奈尔粗花呢,逼供内以镶边为特征。
Blazer/布雷泽式(休闲西装)
A sporty elegant jacket with a shaped style, single or double breasted with lapels.
精制优雅的休闲西装, 单排扣或双排扣,带有翻驳领。
Denim jacket/牛仔茄克
A waist-length jumper made from denim. Originally this was a western worker’s garment.
兰色斜纹布齐腰茄克,起源于西部工人工作服。
3 Coats
Long outer wear worn on the very outside of all clothes. Above the knee it is called” short coat”, at the knee a “ half coat”, and below the knee a “ long coat”. The dress is a basic item of female outer clothing. In the narrow sense, the item is used for a single piece of clothing comprising an upper body part and a skirt section.
大衣是指穿在最外面的服装。膝盖以上称短大衣,及膝长度称半长大衣,膝盖以下称长大衣。裙装是女性的基本外衣,狭义是指上下连为一体的女装。
details
Epaulette肩饰, storm flap披胸布, raglan sleeve插肩袖, D-ring D形环, caped back披肩, chin warmer下巴罩布, flap and button pocket带盖、带纽扣口袋, cuff strap袖口饰带.
Coat design variation/大衣款式设计
Sport coat/运动式
A knee length coat in a box-like cut with defined line.
直筒型及膝长大衣,带有明线设计。
Great coat/厚重长大衣
A heavy, thick men’s coat with a wide lapel and double breasted.
厚重面料的男装大衣,宽翻驳领,通常为双排扣。
Trench coat/战壕式
An all-weather coat. It is worn belted. Epaulettes, shoulder pads and wrist straps are typical details.
一种适合各种气候穿着的宽松大衣,系腰带,肩襻、垫肩和袖襻是此款风衣的典型细
部。
Redingote/细腰式
A fitted women’s coat with lapel and long vertical seams which widen to provide a flared.
带有翻驳领的合体女大衣,纵向破缝,宽下摆。
Wrap/围裹式
It has a comfortable width and is held together simply by a belt.
舒适宽松,用腰带简单系住。
Raglan/插肩式
A loose men’s coat with raglan sleeves, often with concealed buttons.
男式宽松大衣,插肩袖,通常为暗扣门襟。
Chesterfield/柴斯特外套(合体西服式)
An elegant, fitted coat with a suit-like lapel pointing up wards and flap pockets.
优雅合体型大衣,有西服式上翘的翻驳领和盖袋。
Dress design variation/裙装设计变化
Shirt dress/衬衫式
This has a loose cut, cuffed sleeves and shirt collar. It is buttoned all the way through and is belted.宽松式裁剪,有袖口和男式衬衫领。前面通开扣,系腰带。
Coat dress/大衣式
This is usually made of strong material. It is always buttoned all the way down with a belt.
通常采用坚固面料,前面通开扣,系腰带。
Strapless/无带式
The closely fitted, low-cut, sleeveless top is shaped and supported with boning. It sometimes also has thin straps.
紧身合体,无袖上衣部分采用鱼骨支撑,有时也会采用细带。
Day dress/晨礼服
An elegant, high neck, long sleeved dress, worn during the day or also evening
to semiformal occasions.
一种优雅的高领口长袖裙装,用于白天或晚上半正式场合。
Princess/公主式
Long vertical seams form a cloth-fitting top but a wide flared skirt.
纵向长破缝,上衣部分紧身合体,裙子部分展开下摆。
Empire /帝国式
The high, gathered under-bust seam is characteristic of the empire style.
帝国式特征表现在胸下带有抽褶的高腰线裙,通常称之为帝国式。
Straight/直线式
A flared or pleated skirt is fitted to an elongated straight top.
将阔摆或褶裥缝合到加长的直线裁剪的上衣上。
Shift/衬衫式
The shirt-like straight cut without a waist is characteristic of this dress.
衬衫式直线裁剪、无腰线的连衣裙称为直筒式/
4 Skirts/短裙
Nowadays, the term skirt is used for an item of clothing worn from waist down and which is the basic element of women’s clothing matching jacket with skirt makes a suit, or costume. Many styles of skirts are subject to changes in fashion. Other styles are considered classics, or timeless. Individual styles are distinguished by length, width, silhouette, cut and details.
短裙是指自腰而下的服装单品,是女装的一个基本元素。短裙与外套相配便可形成套装,也可以组成礼服。很多裙子的款式会随着流行而变化,也有些款式被看做经典而经久不衰。个种款式通过长度、宽度、外形轮廓、裁剪结构以及细部的不同而有所区别。
Skirt length/短裙的长度种类
Micro超超短, mini超短, knee及膝, below the knee膝下, midi及小腿, maxi过小腿, ankle length及脚踝, floor length及地
skirt design variation/短裙款式设计
Narrow/一步裙
The hem of the skirt is narrow than the width at the hips.
裙子的下摆宽度比臀围窄。
Draped/悬垂裙
An elegant, sophisticated skirt with folds.
带有柔软悬垂褶的优雅华美的裙子。
Bell/钟形裙
The circular or semi0circular cut produces a flared hem.
圆形或半圆摆裁剪,形成展开的下摆。
Paneled/多片裙
This style is close at the hips with a wide hem obtained by shaped vertical panels.
通过纵向分割线实现臀部合体,下摆展开。
Gored /插片裙
Either bell shaped panels or inserted additional material allow the hem to swing out.
通过裁剪钟形裁片或插入镶片面料,使下摆展开。
Tiered/塔裙
The successive horizontal panels increase in width towards the hem.
相继横向破缝,并逐层增加宽度。
Yoke style/育克裙
A straight section is added from the waist to about hip height.
在腰线至臀围附近加上的平直部分,成为育克。
Frilled hemline/花边裙
The ruffled hem edging can be either straight or flounced.
下摆花边可以是直的,也可以是荷叶边。
Pleats/褶裥裙
Pleats allow freedom of movement whilst maintaining a slim silhouette.
褶裥可以增加运动的自由度,同时还可以保持苗条的外型。
Causal /休闲裙
Big pocket and a button-through front are typical details in a casual skirt.
大口袋以及前面的通开扣是休闲裙典型的细部特征。
5 Pants/裤子
Until relatively trousers were worn exclusively by males. Today they are commonly found in the female wardrobe. The various styles of trousers have developed mainly from different functional uses, but they are also influenced to a greater or lesser extent by fashion.
以往裤子只属于男性。如今裤装已经普遍存在于妇女的衣橱里了。
Pants details/裤子细部
Belt loop裤襻, double pleated front双褶裥, center crease裤中线, inseam内缝, waist-band裤腰, side pocket侧袋, side seam侧缝, turn-up翻折裤脚
Pants design variation/裤子款式设计
Short/运动短裤
Very short trousers. Hot pants are skintight women’s shorts.
非常短的裤子。很紧身的女短裤称为热裤。
Bermuda shorts/百慕大短裤
Wide shorts reaching to just above the knee.
很宽大的短裤,长度正好在膝盖上面.
Tapered/锥形裤
The legs are significantly narrower at the bottom.
裤腿非常小的裤子.
Straight/直筒裤
Narrow at the hips, legs the same width all the way down.
臀部合体,整个裤腿保持同一宽度.
Jeans/牛仔裤
Characteristics are bold top-stitched seams, studs and leather patches.
其显著特点表现在粗双明线、装饰铆钉以及皮革商标贴片。
Flared /喇叭裤
Closely fitted at the top but legs wider at the foot than at the knee.
上半部非常紧身,裤脚宽度宽于膝盖处。
Harem pants/灯笼裤
Very long, wide trousers with a tight cuff.
带有紧裤脚的宽松长裤
Culottes/裙裤
These are calf length with a wide cut.
长及小腿的宽腿裤。
6 Suits/套装
Since the end of the nineteenth century, putting together several items of clothing to form a whole outfit has been part of the sophisticated male and female wardrobe. Whilst the earlier classic combinations such as the ensemble and complete always formed a complete outfit and were also mainly made of the same material. Today’s unconventional combination fashion allows outfits to be put together according to individual taste. The suit consist of a jacket and skirt or trousers and is possibly accompanied by a waist-coat.
自从19世纪末以来,将几件单品服装配在一起组成的套装,已经成为当今讲究男女士衣橱的一部分了。早些时候,传统套装的每件服装都是采用同种面料。今天非传统套装可以根据个人喜好来搭配。套装由上衣与裙子或裤子组成,有时也可能包括马甲。
men’s outfits/男套装
Blazer combination/组合套装
The causal, but smart jacket is usually of one color and has metal buttons. There are both single and double-breasted designs.
这种休闲而优雅的套装通常采用单色面料以及金属扣,单排扣、双排扣均可。
Business suit/办公套装
A single0breasted suit, often with a waistcoat, or a double-breasted suit pointed lapels; usually made of dark, elegant fabric.
单排扣西服套装通常配有西服背心,而双排扣套装则配以尖角翻驳领。常用优雅的深色面料。
Leisure suit/休闲套装
The blouson style jacket with a button placket and cuffed sleeved is generally chosen. They are often unlined.
这种紧摆式套装带有前襟明贴边、带袖衩以及克夫袖口的袖子通常扣合。
Traditional suits/传统套装
The characteristics of the jacket reflect local or regional historical- culture traditional style. The illustration is based on alpine traditions.
这类套装的特点是反映某一区域历史文化的传统风格。图中反映的是阿尔卑斯传统风格。
Women’s outfits/女套装
Tailored suit/精制西服套装
The strong, masculine finish as well as high quality classic material are characteristics of the tailored suit.
精制西服套装的特点是具有阳刚性,采用男装挺括的工艺处理及高档经典面料。
Chanel suit/夏奈尔套装
The generic name for a suit designed by Chanel, or a similar suit. It employs Chanel tweed and features hem-stitching. Often made in collarless cardigan style.
指夏奈尔品牌套装或类似款式的套装。采用夏奈尔粗呢,其主要特点是镶边、通常为无领开襟。
Causal suits/休闲套装
They generally have a less severe finish as well as popular technical details in the cut. Combinations of material and decoration are frequently used. The suits are usually described according to the design of the jacket of the style.
通常较少挺括处理,裁剪方面采用一些流行的技术细节。有时会采用不同面料的组合和装饰。这类套装通常根据上衣款式或整体风格进行描述。
Two-piece/两件套装裙
A suit in the style of a dress. The jacket dress consists of a skirt and soft jacket top.
这是一种连衣裙式的套装。这种套装由短裙和柔性上衣构成。
Coordinates/调和套装
They are made out of matching material. Matching material can have the same pattern but be of different fabric. Alternatively, it can have the same pattern on different scale or in different colors. Finally, the fabric can also be patterned differently but have the same coloring.
调和套装采用相互匹配的面料。面料可以是不同种材质而同种图案,也可以是不同大小的同种图案或不同颜色的同种图案,还可以同种颜色不同图案。
Trouser suit/裤子套装
The combination of trousers and a jacket or top is now an essential part of he wardrobe.
裤子与西服上衣的搭配现在已经是女性衣橱里的基本组合了。
Separates/套装单品
A collection of coordinating garments, displayed and sold as separate items. The purchaser selects from the range to produce an outfit.
套装单品在商店里是分开陈列、单独销售的。顾客选择单品后自行搭配成套装。
Ensemble/对比套装
The ensemble puts together items of clothing which complement each other in style and material to form a whole outfit.
将相互映衬的单品相互组合,在款式和面料方面形成一个整体的套装。
Complete/完整套装
The complete is a combination of a suit with a coat or long jacket.
这是一种套装与大衣或长外衣组合的套装。
Formal dress
Formal dress describes men’s and women’s clothing for official or festival occasions. Distinctions are made between the wardrobes for the day and the evening. Apart from the classic or formal styles of clothing, modern or unconventional styles have developed. Although these styles are not as severe, they are nevertheless clearly distinguishable from daywear.
礼服是指男士或女士在正式场合或节日庆典场合穿着的服装。衣橱中的礼服区别于日常装和晚装。除了经典的或正式风格的礼服以外,还有晨礼服或称非传统风格的半礼服。尽管晨礼服工艺上要求不是那么高,但还是很容易与日常装区分的。
Formal day suit consists of a dark jacket, striped trousers without turn-up and a gray waistcoat. The tie can be discreetly patterned. Women wear elegant suit or to-piece to official occasions.
正式常礼服由深色上衣、无卷边条纹裤、灰色西服背心组成。领带采用典雅的图案。女士正式场合可以穿着优雅的套装或两件套裙装。
The cutaway or morning suit is the very formal daytime attire. The tails of the black jacket are cut back in a curve form the single, fastened button. It is worn with striped trousers, a gray waistcoat and a broad silver-gray silk tie, or cravat. Alternatively, the whole outfit can be gray.
圆角常礼服或晨礼服是一种非常正式的常礼服。后拖尾部分从前面扣位处曲线裁剪,
单排扣。与条纹裤、灰色西服背心、银灰色领带或领巾相配。整身套杂混岗也可以是灰色。
The Spencer suit is gaining popularity among the younger generation, as unconventional wedding suit. The waist length Spencer has a fitted cut.
短西服套装作为一种非常规的婚礼服在年轻一代中很流行。齐腰长的上衣裁剪得很合体。
The black single breasted dinner jacket ( tuxedo) is part of the classic evening dress suit. The characteristic are silk covered, straight or pointed lapels and silk covered, stripes (galloons) down the sides of the trousers without turn-ups. The suit traditionally worn with a white-on-white embroidered or fancy woven dress shirt, a cummerband (sash) and a clack bow tie.
黑色单排扣晚宴服(塔士多礼服)是一种常规的晚礼服。其特点是翻驳领采用丝绸面料,裤子无卷边,两侧采用缎带装饰。常配以白色绣花或花织衬衫、宽腰带及黑色领结。
Nowadays, the formal tuxedo can be white or cream and double- breasted, but nevertheless, is always worn with dark trousers and clack bow tie. More adventurous versions, in a variety of striking colors and material , with silk-covered lapels, have also appeared. Accessories, such as fancy shirts and neckwear, are chosen to match the color, but the black trousers are usually retained.
如今,正式塔士多礼服也可以是白色或乳白色,可以是双排扣,不过总是要与深色裤子以及黑色领结相配。一些更新的款式则采用各种各样亮色面料,翻驳领采用丝绸面料,
配以相应的花样衬衫和领饰,裤子通常是黑色。
Women choose a party suit, a party dress, a cocktail dress or evening dress according to the occasion.
女士根据场合可选择聚会套装、聚会套裙、鸡尾酒会礼服或晚礼服。
The very formal evening suit is the black suit is black tail coat which has tails on the back beginning from the side seams. The front is only waist length, the pointed lapels are covered with silk and the trousers have a silk stripe down the sides. The tail coat is worn open and is accompanied by a white waistcoat, a dress shirt with a wing collar and a white bow-tie. The
最正式的礼服是黑色燕尾服,从两侧向后形成燕尾.前面只有齐腰长,尖翻驳领采用丝绸面料覆盖,裤子两侧采用缎带装饰。燕尾服敞开穿着,露出白色的西服背心、燕子领衬衫和白色领结。
women’s very formal evening dress is always full length.
女士最正式的晚礼服通常是及地长裙。
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